7 Questions for Beejhy Barhany
Beejhy Barhany is a chef, author, and cultural bridge-builder who uses food as a universal language to connect communities worldwide.
She is the founder of the Beta Israel of North America Cultural Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to empowering and celebrating the rich legacy of Ethiopian Jews, and owner of Tsion Café—an acclaimed Ethiopian-Israeli restaurant in Harlem, New York. JWA recently sat down with Barhany to discuss her relationship to food, community, and Judaism.
Emma Breitman: What has your relationship to food and Judaism looked like over the years?
Beejhy Barhany: Food is inseparable from my Jewish life and identity. In my tradition, everything revolves around food and faith: Feeding someone is a great honor, and welcoming a guest and caring for them are core values I inherited. I grew up where hospitality wasn’t an event but a way of being—woven into daily life and every life-cycle moment: birth, weddings, mourning, and holidays. That’s why food is my language of belonging and bridge‑building; it’s how I live my Judaism—by nourishing people, creating space for connection, and carrying forward the values of my heritage.
EB: Throughout your career, you have focused on uplifting Ethiopian Jewry in various capacities. Are there any particular histories or stories that have felt central to fueling your work?
BB: My anchor is the lived continuity of Ethiopian Jewry—our prayers, rituals, and family traditions carried across generations. Sharing that story through talks, tastings, and coffee ceremonies lets people feel the depth of our heritage. When others recognize that continuity, it affirms my purpose to keep teaching, celebrating, and expanding understanding of our community.
EB: What led you to found the Beta Israel of North America (BINA) Cultural Foundation?
BB: I founded BINA to promote visibility, education, and dignity for Ethiopian Jews in North America. For too long, our narrative has been excluded from the broader Jewish story or misrepresented by others. BINA was created to reclaim and correct that history. BINA provides a dedicated space for programming, learning, and celebration. It is a home where we address identity and inclusion while elevating the wisdom of our culture—a place where everyone is welcome to listen, learn, and belong.
EB: What inspired you to open Tsion Cafe, New York’s only Ethiopian‑Israeli restaurant?
BB: My inspiration for opening New York’s only Ethiopian-Israeli restaurant was a desire to "break barriers by breaking bread." As a resident of Harlem’s Sugar Hill, I wanted to provide wholesome, sustainable, and nutritious food to my community. Over the past 12 years, we have served as a neighborhood anchor, introducing the unique flavors of Ethiopia and Israel while fostering meaningful dialogue. Our space also serves as a cultural hub, hosting live music, poetry, and art exhibitions. Tsion Cafe has grown into a "cultural table" that feeds our guests and encourages the conversations necessary to build a stronger community.
EB: The building that Tsion resides in has a history of its own. Can you share a bit with us?
BB: I’m honored to carry forward the legacy of 763 St. Nicholas Avenue, once home to Jimmy’s Chicken Shack—a landmark where figures like Redd Foxx, Malcolm X, and Charlie Parker gathered, worked, and celebrated. As a Black, immigrant, Jewish woman in Harlem, I see Tsion as a way to honor that living history: a place where community, creativity, and courage continue to meet.
EB: Recently, after receiving repeated antisemitic threats, Tsion made the difficult decision to close its doors for daily service. Will this be permanent? What do you see for Tsion Cafe’s future?
BB: Closing daily service was painful, but it was an act of care. We haven’t stopped—we’ve pivoted. Tsion now focuses on intentional, program-based openings: curated dinners, educational events, and dialogue circles. We’re partnering with organizations for interfaith programming that closes gaps in understanding about the Jewish diaspora. Our sold-out Ethiopian and Yemenite Shabbat dinners show the impact—celebrating the mosaic of our tradition through food. We remain fully committed to nourishment, engagement, and dialogue with our community in this more focused, resilient form.
EB: Your book Gursha: Timeless Recipes for Modern Kitchens, from Ethiopia, Israel, Harlem, and Beyond was published last year—mazel tov! If you had to pick, what is your favorite recipe from the book?
BB: Messer Wot—the ancient red lentil stew. It’s humble, sustaining, and rooted in our Ethiopian Jewish story, echoing a biblical sensibility that travels from our ancestors’ tables to mine. With simple ingredients, patient cooking, and communal sharing, it carries memory and reminds me why food is my way of teaching, welcoming, and keeping tradition alive.
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